A few chickens in the garden give you fresh eggs, but also a fixed routine: feeding, refreshing water, collecting eggs and keeping the coop clean. This page brings together everything you use in that routine, from feeder tower to nest box and from incubator to care product. It is meant for hobby keepers with three hens behind the house as well as those who let a larger flock roam the yard.
How the range is organised
- Chicken feed and treats: mixed corn and cracked maize from Wierikx, De Vries Kippenvoer Deluxe, grit and multigrain from Kasper Faunafood, mealworms and peck blocks.
- Chicken drinkers: drinker towers from 1 to 40 litres, drinking buckets in plastic or galvanised steel, and a heated drinker.
- Feeders and feeder towers: from a small feed trough to large hoppers and a treadle feeder.
- Nest boxes and perches: plastic and wooden nest boxes from Gaun and Kerbl, some with egg collection, plus perches for young birds.
- Incubators and chick supplies: incubators from Covatutto and Zar Cudeyo, an automatic egg turner and candling lamps.
- Health and care: Excellent products against red mite, vitamins, electrolytes and a sulphur duster.
- Chicken coop and run: shelter, outdoor space and fencing against predators.
Where do you start with a new flock?
If you are just starting, this is the most practical order to buy in. First a coop with a run that can be shut at night, because a fox or marten is the biggest threat to a hobby flock. Then a drinker and a feeder big enough to last at least a day, so you do not have to refill them every morning and evening. Then a nest box: allow roughly four to five hens per nest compartment, like the Gaun model with two compartments made for up to ten birds. Finally a perch that hangs higher than the nest, so the birds do not sleep in the nest.
Feed is the last step, but one you repeat often. A complete layers feed is the basis, with grain and treats on top. If you have never kept chickens, first read the page keeping chickens for beginners; it explains, item by item, what you really need and what can wait.
What each season asks of you
In winter, water in an ordinary drinker freezes within a night. You then thaw the drinker every morning or choose a heated drinker, which does need a power socket nearby. Laying drops as soon as the days get short; that is normal and not a sign of illness.
Spring is breeding time. A broody hen or an incubator then produces chicks, which need their own small drinker and feeder. From late spring into late summer, red mite numbers grow quickly. Check the perches and the seams of the coop weekly at that time, and always use products against them according to the label.
Points to note
With feeders and drinkers, look at the capacity and at the base height: a model on legs stays cleaner, but is sometimes too high for chicks. Wood looks natural, plastic is quicker to clean. During bird flu outbreaks, the authorities may order poultry to be housed; make sure your flock can then stay indoors or under a solid roof. If you have doubts about a chicken's health, consult a vet who treats poultry.
Frequently asked questions
What is the minimum you need to keep chickens?
A lockable coop with a run, a drinker, a feeder, a nest box and a perch. In addition, layers feed as the basis and possibly grain and grit as extras.
How many nest boxes do I need for my chickens?
Allow four to five hens per nest compartment. Chickens happily share a nest; an extra compartment mainly prevents jostling on busy laying mornings.
Why do my chickens lay less in winter?
Laying is closely linked to day length. When the days are short, production drops naturally, and it picks up again in spring.
Where can I find products against red mite?
They are under health, in the red mite and mites subcollection. Always use them according to the label.